28 February 2006

things behind the sun

the tramping club's first tramp was up mt. cargill, which is within walking distance of dunedin.


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view as walking up the trail

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the trail

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view of dunedin from the top

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view of the peninsula from the top

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bush (note how thick)

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pine forest which is entirely a result of humans. there are no native pines in new zealand. this forest used to be bush that was burned down and then these were planted for forestry reasons (a lot of them have orange marks on them as markers for them to be cut down soon)



and finally a picture of otago, although only one because i haven't gotten around to taking anymore.



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the clocktower building and leith river

the left side

during plant ecology practical today, the lab boss asked for volunteers to drive vans for our field trips. she specifically asked me (i was in a different room getting my hand lens so was walking into the discussion half way through), and wanted to know if i had a license.

"yes, but i don't think anyone wants to drive with me"

i'm the only international in the class and she informed me that my usa drivers license was good for the first twelve months i'm here.

"well, yes, but i don't think you'd want to drive on the left side of the road with me"

general laughter and agreement with that sentiment.

[although, i must say, that i would like to try it out at some point while i'm here. and that, proudly, i'm getting used to walking on the left side of the sidewalk and looking right before crossing roads. i almost got hit by a taxi the other night, but no real disasters (yet)]

26 February 2006

drumroll, please

so.


i have (thus far) taken about 200 pictures. and am in the process of uploading them to my webshots site (see link on left, named "pictures"), but have also decided to post a few of my favorites on this blog, and will continue to do so throughout my semester.

a "few" means about

.....

forty.

so i'm going to apologize right now, but i have no self control (and actually if you think about it, 40 out of around 200 is pretty good). i also tend to be quite detail oriented in my photography, but will work on taking "big picture" photos to indicate a bit more where i am actually am and what not.

none of the below pictures are of dunedin, but those will be coming soon as well.

as mentioned, the rest will be added sporadically to webshots if you would like to see all of them.

and now, without further ado:

auckland:


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auckland skyline from the harbor

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view of street from myer's park (near my hostel)

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lanterns in albert park

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sky tower from albert park

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sky tower from base

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tutukaka (where i finished my certification harbor)

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yes, those are cows on the beach near tutukaka

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view down the beach near our hotel

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view from the water

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inside the cool house, wintergarden, auckland domain

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close up

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ferns at fernz fernery

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(random, i know, since i'm not including the picture of the government house. just note the qualifier on the sign, i was amused)

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mt. eden volcanic cone

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view of auckland through mt. eden's cone

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view of one tree hill from mt. eden

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up one tree hill

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view of mt. eden from one tree hill

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view of south harbor from top of one tree hill

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devonport street, beach, art gallery

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sailboat races in auckland's north harbor

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ditto



butler orientation at shakespear lodge:


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waterfall in 'waterfall gully'

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a koru, the uncurling fern, unofficial symbol of new zealand and maori culture

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light north island bush (most of the time it's too thick to get any good pictures)

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view of shakespear park (part of). the lodge i stayed it is on the right hand side above the beach. you can also sort of see the sky tower (and auckland) in the distance

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the marae

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digging out the hangi

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maori kids in performance costumes

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maori girl

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white butler boys pretending to be maori warriors

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waikato river in the am

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mist over the waikato river



internationals visit the otago peninsula:


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cliffs at tairoa head (also where the albatross nest)

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cliffs facing the other direction

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view of otago harbor from tairoa head

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albatross

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allan's beach

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sand dunes at sandfly beach

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wind blown

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view down sandfly beach from the top of the dunes


[more to come soon]

24 February 2006

measuring cups, play a new game

i stayed in for the first time last night, a desperately needed break. watched garden state and listened to music - finally organized my things (well tried to) and read and wrote in my journal. it was a great way to spend my friday night, and i really needed the chance to be by myself.

i've finished international students orientation, which really wasn't very orienting - a welcome talk and then something about academics that i didn't go to because i've already been to about three talks re:academia since being in new zealand. wednesday night, they rented out a pub for all the internationals, which was actually pretty fun. the good thing about the drinking age being 18 is that you have no problem getting people to go to things. in the states, i imagine trying to get 400 students together would be rather difficult, but here, you just promise alcohol and drink specials and everyone shows up. it really is quite funny.

i finally figured out why everyone i meet seems to be american: there are 400 international students and about 1/3 of them are from the states and most of the others are from asia (and tend to be fairly non-social unless you are also asian). so i've met a lot of nice americans and some germans courtesy of karen. she seems to have latched onto a group of germans which is good and bad ... when she's with other people from germany they tend to speak in german, which i think is kind of rude since i'm there and obviously can't speak german.

things are still going well with her, though. she's nice and easy to talk to, so i think that will work out just fine.

it has also finally (finally) warmed up. apparently we had a bit of a cold front the past few days coming from the south.

and you know what's south of here?

antarctica.

no wonder it was so freaking cold - windy and really rainy and freezing!

i bought flannel sheets for my bed at a second hand shop the other day and i'm so so glad ... they'll help keep me warm and i think i might buy a hot water bottle too (by recommendation). this no central heating thing is strange and my flat doesn't have very good insulation, so any warmth disappears rather quickly. i might just have to start sleeping in multiple layers in as much clothing as possible

thursday, the internationals all went out on the otago peninsula which was really really incredible although the weather was awful (windy and rainy and freezing - my mom's gortex (which she so kindly let me take with me) is saving my life). we went to a few different spots, but didn't spend a lot of time at any of them, so it was very tour like ... drive for 30 minutes to get off the bus for 20 and then drive around again. we did see some albatross and a sea lion, so that was exciting. no penguins, but i now know a good spot to see them, so hopefully when brad is here we'll get out there.

seeing the albatross flying around was really incredible. they are huge and soar so easily on the wind. Albatross spend the majority of their lives at sea, so it's great to get the opportunity to see them here (they're currently nesting ... the chicks just hatched although you can't actually see them).

i cannot wait to see the yellow eyed penguins although i did see a few blue ones up on the north island. it's so fun to have penguins around! life south of the equator isn't so bad.

i guess there's a bus that runs out on the peninsula, but i got the impression that you really need a car ... so i think he and i are going to rent one. which could be interesting, since its cheaper if he gets it since he's 21, he's never driven a manual before and its likely cheaper for us to get one of those (or maybe our only choice) and he'll be driving on the other side of the road.

i think it will be hilarious to witness, to say the very least.

we'll see of course. but i know we'll get one the second weekend he's here because we're going to go out to fiordland and will need a car.

thursday night, a few butler kids and i went to a bar here that has live jazz every thursday night - its a group of four old men (60s or 70s i'd say) who come every week. no cost to get in and it's really nice, very relaxing and fun. a huge variety of people come: from college, to 30 somethings, to middle aged, to retired. it felt really nice to do something other than go to a college pub and be crammed in there and have to shout to be heard.

i really can only do the pub thing for so long.

friday we had preliminary lectures, which are a bit of a joke. in some classes they handed out a syllabus, but most did not. i hear that no kiwis actually even bother going - only first years and us internationals. still, it was nice to get at least a vague idea of what was going on. my two ecology classes have a lot of field trips (!!), which is going to be awesome. i'm really excited to actually get the chance to get out and do something in a lab rather than sitting there and having someone talk at you or watch bacteria cook for a few hours.

plant ecology could be way over my head, so i'm going to have a chat (oh god, new zealand lingo already) with the lecturer the first day to see how lost i'm going to be.

i also joined the tramping club (i.e. hiking) and our first hike is tomorrow up a nearby mountain, so that should be fantastic. i'm so excited to actually go hiking and see the area around here.

i've figured out that i can get my laptop hooked up to the internet here in the library which means i will post pictures soon soon.

it must be said that being able to buy a bottle of wine is a wonderful thing.

21 February 2006

finally here

kia ora from dunedin!

i still do not have internet in my flat (soon soon hopefully), so still no pictures. i promise there will be ... just not yet. unfortunately uo (i.e. university of otago) is not wireless, and the internet in my flat will probably be have to be dial-up (yuck), but soon, i promise.

in the meantime, i will try to (finally) update what i've been up to for the past almost-three-weeks-now:

i really did have a good time in auckland, despite the "hostile hostel". it was a good introduction to this country and i got the chance to learn about the area, relax, read, adjust to the time difference, and so on. it also felt very liberating to realize that, yes, i'm ok travelling by myself, even though it was very difficult at times. i'm so happy i went out early and checked auckland off the list. as the biggest city in new zealand, its not somewhere i really want to spend my time while i'm here, but i think its still good to visit (a week was definitely enough).

tutukaka, as i said, really helped me get through my initial loneliness and feeling sorry for myself from those first two days. the kiwis really do live up to their reputation of being very hospitable and friendly. i had my own instructor, something i'm immensely thankful for since the conditions weren't ideal, and as a brand-new diver, i was glad to have individual attention. he and i also had a lot of bonding time while the others were out doing dives i'm not qualified for (night, deep, wreck, and so on).

our first morning there, we went into a near by cafe to grab some coffee. our waitress asked what we wanted and he ordered a mochaccino and i asked for a "regular coffee"

"a (mumble of something i couldn't understand) or a mochaccino"

i stared at her blankly. "just a regular coffee"

"a (same mumble mumble jumbley words), then?"

i must have looked absolutely confused because my instructor answered yes on my behalf and she left. he then explained that a regular coffee here is a "flat white" - more like a cappaccino than what we call regular coffee in the states. i have yet to actually find regular coffee in any cafe since i've been here. they don't even have coffee beans in the store - just the instant, freeze dried coffee that you mix with hot water. so no coffee pot - just a pitcher looking thing that you plug into the wall and heats up the water.

so strange.

it really amuses me how many little difference there are between new zealand and the states. the vocabulary has a lot of little differences - sunnies (sunglasses) and jandals (flip-flops) - are my current favorites, in addition to saying "cheers" to anyone about anything - it seems to be the all-encompassing word that works for "thanks", "take care", "best", "later", "have fun", and on and on. it does get difficult: half the time i have to ask people what they mean because the slang is so different.

i think the highlight (besides tutukaka) of my trip to auckland was the coast-to-coast walkway, a 16 km walk from the north to south harbor in auckland. you really should get a map of auckland to really understand what i mean, but auckland is located on a very skinny part on the south end of the northernmost peninsula on the north island (whoo that sounds confusing), which is why its such a great location - surrounded by water and good for harbors, shipping, ports, etc. auckland is also built on a series of volcanic cones (nine total, i think), the two most famous of which are included on this hike: mt. eden and one tree hill.

so the walk begins in the north harbor and city center, walks past auckland university, the auckland domain, and then up mt. eden, to cornwall park and one tree hill, then down to the south harbor (a rather disappointing end to such a great walk, but what can you do?). it was a great chance to see a large range of the city and the cones are...indescribable. so, so beautiful.

i left auckland friday morning and met the rest of the ifsa-butler (the program through which i'm here) kids at the auckland airport. most of them flew in together on a group flight, but there were about ten of us who had been travelling beforehand (i was surprised by how many). the butler group totals 45 and there is another program that brings people to otago, bringing the total number of americans here to around 100 - by far the biggest group of international students at uo.

anyways, we went to shakespear regional park, about an hour north of auckland to stay for the weekend. it was a great opportunity to get to know other students, relax, and enjoy the beautiful north island weather (around 25 (yes i'm working on my celsius and metric numbers)). people seem to be fairly down to earth (for americans, haha) and everyone is very interested in taking advantage of how beautiful this country is and all the outdoor activities it has to offer. there are a ton of biology (no huge surprise there) and anthropology majors, but everyone seems to want to focus more on travelling while they're here; it is completely understandable, but i'm also really excited for my classes - they are so different from anything i can take in the states.

we stayed at a ymca there, run by a kiwi guy named garth, who also runs a farm on the land (i think everything here doubles as a farm). they fed us so much; i felt like all we did was eat, but the food was delicious, so it worked. the maori word for food is kai, so every time was kai time: breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner complete with dessert at every meal. mix that with beautiful landscapes and a beach within walking distance, and it was a spectacular weekend. i hiked, went sea kayaking, swam, and, in general, got to know people a bit better.

sunday night, we left the ymca and went south of auckland to a maori marae (meeting place and village) to learn more about the maori culture, visit, and stay the night. there is a lot of ritual and formalities to visit a marae, all of which we got to experience (i.e. speeches and singing of songs that indicate each tribes history and the fact that only men can speak on behalf of the tribe). they cooked us a fabulous meal in the hangi (the "maori microwave" - a huge hole in the ground where they cook big meals) and we played games with the maori kids. a group of kids also did a small performance with us - complete with singing, dancing, and costumes.

all the guys from our group had to go up on the stage at one point to practice a war dance/song/chant. i can't wait to post pictures (!!) because it was one of the funniest things i've ever seen - all these very white guys with their shirts off being led by six and seven year olds in a war chant and trying to act tough. haha.

i really enjoy learning about the maori culture here. the situation of the maoris is so different from that of the native americans in the states. maori is an official language here and they are considered part of the government (i.e. they have their own party, can vote, and hold office). it's interesting to hear their perspective since they make it sound pretty bad, and i agree that white people do a very good job of going places and destroying the culture that exists there, but i think the maori are pretty lucky here in new zealand. their language, artwork, and culture is very incorporated into this country, although it is always a very complicated and difficult situation, to have two cultures trying to exist peacefully and simultaneously.

the ecology of this country absolutely fascinates me. as a result of the white people, the ecosystem here has practically been destroyed because of the introduction of mammals to the islands. the islands were the last land masses in the world to rise out of the ocean, so they're relatively young and have been populated primarily by birds - who, since there were no predators - are generally flightless and reproduce only once a year (if that). the mammals have basically destroyed them, from the stoats killing the kiwis (the bird, that is) and all the sheep and cattle destroying the native forests to make room for grasslands.

very interesting, i think (apologies to readers who are not so interested).

anyways, on monday we finally (after delayed flights and lost baggage) arrived at our flats. we were told that we were the last people to arrive here, so to expect our flats to be full of people, but when i finally got to mine, there was no sign of anyone else there. it was actually quite terrifying because my bag had been lost, so i was literally walking into an empty and lonely house.

my flatmate, karen from germany, did arrive later that night (thank god). as did my bag (hooray!).

my flat is practically on campus, i am less than a five minute walk, and is very very nice. it is just karen and i (most people have at least three or four people to a flat) and the place is huge and most of the appliances seem brand new. we each have our own room complete with queen size bed and furniture. the kitchen came with dishes and cookware and the bathroom looks new. we have a tiny tiny backyard with a clothesline and porch. the common area is pretty large and we also have a little breakfast nook.

(did i mention the laundry room with free laundry???)

anyways, i'm really excited about the place. the other side of our street is a river that runs through dunedin, so the street seems to be pretty low key.

the rest of the flats, however, are ridiculous. this week is "orientation week", which means that all the students (18000 of them) are here with nothing to do - except for drink. and that's what everyone does. i have never ever seen anything like it - beer everywhere, people walking around with open alcohol containers and blatantly drinking in public (illegal, i think). it's ... crazy.

so i did my course approval on tuesday (you have to get the department to ok and sign you into classes), got my id card, and all squared away for prelim lectures on friday and then real lecture starts on monday.

my classes are going to be awesome, although fairly intense: maori society, plant ecology, marine ecology, principles of physical oceanography, and a three hour lab for each of the ecology classes.

international students orientation is this week, but it seems fairly uninvolved. i went to a meeting this morning (welcome, health, safety, and academics briefings) and tonight all the international kids are going to a pub. tomorrow, we go on a trip down the peninsula to see the penguins, seals, and albatross!

dunedin is a really beautiful city (from the limited amount i've seen while running errands) and otago is gorgeous - the campus has a lot of scottish architecture so it sort of reminds me of bc (complete with clock tower and everything). we also have a student union here (amazing, bc needs one desperately), and a great library.

i'm really excited for classes to start. i feel like i've been out of school for so long (three months almost now) and my classes sound really interesting. i've joined the tramping (hiking) club on campus and intend to go on a day hike here this weekend with them!

all in all, i am so relieved to finally, finally be here and to be getting settled and moved in.

13 February 2006

auckland, briefly

this will be brief because i'm in an internet cafe and don't have a ton of time to write:

auckland has been ... lonely most of all. people at the hostel i am staying at are not very friendly, so i mostly wander around the city by myself and come back to make dinner and read until bed.

for the most part, i have enjoyed auckland though. in a strange way, it reminds me of boston - small enough to walk around, similar feel to it. the difference of course being that people drive on the wrong side of the road and everyone has an accent (or maybe that's me now?). there is so much green space here i can't believe it: parks every few blocks at least and lots of "bush" area - quite loud too, they seem to vibrate with insect/cricket/cicada noise. the parks are by far my favorite part of auckland though.

this past weekend i travelled to tutukaka (three hours north of auckland) to complete my certification dives. it was beautiful and there were some great people diving with us (not certification dives, just there to enjoy it), so it was nice to get away from the general un-friendliness of auckland. this country is extraordinarily beautiful; when i get my computer hooked up to the internet, i will be sure to post pictures.

highlights in auckland so far include: the viaduct harbor, the auckland museum (three floors dedicated to new zealand's history: maori, natural, and war), the auckland art gallery (kiwi artists, primarily so a good change), sky tower, aotea square, the auckland domain (massive park), the coast-to-coast walkway (16 km from the north to south harbor) which included two volcanic cones - one tree hill and mt. eden. the volcanic cones are spectacular. there are ... eight (?) ... in auckland and you can climb straight up these two. the kiwis obviously don't believe in winding paths - the paths to climb the cones go straight (literally straight) up. but from the top you get beautiful 360 panoramic views of the city.

so it's been a good time here; i'm glad i came early to see the city. tomorrow i'm going to the north shore to a place called devonport to enjoy the cafes, shops, and beaches.

i leave auckland on friday to travel to a national park somewhere on the north island for my first orientation and then south to dunedin.

[sorry so brief and condensed ... internet cafe time is short. but i am alive and well]

05 February 2006

but also really excited

my flight to los angeles leaves in less than twenty-four hours. the piles of things-to-bring, currently on my floor, still need to somehow fit into my two allowed suitcases, at less than 44 pounds each.

i should really be used to packing my life into two suitcases by now, but i'm not.

the problem, of course, is that in addition to normal things - like clothes, toiletries, etc - i also need to bring a sleeping bag and things for hiking, snorkeling, etc. yes, i managed to get to tucson under 40 pounds, but i'm adding on a considerable amount of things. who ever came up with these baggage weight limits anyways? and how are they still only 44 pounds for people who are traveling internationally, but have to make a domestic flight in new zealand?

although i've created about 80 million lists of things i think i could possibly need that i wouldn't be able to buy in new zealand (what can i say? i love lists) i'm still terrified that i'm going to get there and find something i need immediately, that is not available in new zealand, and that my existence is reliant upon. it's also possible that i am simultaneously excited and nervous about this whole prospect so am completely over-analyzing everything related.

i shouldn't really be stressing too much about these baggage things, because, i know, that somehow i will get everything there and will be able to carry everything by myself.

when my family visited new zealand seven years ago, i remember telling my parents i was going to go to college there. and now, here i am ...

i haven't even left yet, and i'm already in shock that i could possibly be going. that this is actually happening.

i'll be in auckland (the largest city) for eight days before meeting other students from the states for a new zealand orientation and then i fly to dunedin for the international students orientation at the university. the prospect of being by myself for that first week is a little intimidating, but i'm glad i'll get the chance to explore auckland and see the north island before going south.

(i'm boring you with my "freaking-out-but-also-really-excited"-ness, so i'll just leave it at this)

02 February 2006

knowing that

tuesday morning i got to work before my dad. we drive separately on tuesdays because he goes to a workout group right after work. a few minutes after i arrived, my mom called.

"dad said he didn't tell you ... but ... we're putting pumba down this morning. i wanted you to know ... if you wanted to come"

i sat there. silently in shock at my desk.

"no ... i don't want to come. i want to say goodbye ... but i don't want to experience that again"

[about six years ago we put down bella (the dog my mom says was "the best dog we ever had). i was pretty young when we adopted her, but i remember wandering around the pound looking at dogs. she was the only dog there not barking, and when they brought her into the visiting room, she walked over to my mom, put her head on my mom's leg and looked up at her with those pleading eyes that only pound dogs have. she had gray fur around her mouth which made her look older than she was.

it is difficult to explain the connection you acquire with a dog.

she was my baby. when we moved to tucson and put in our pool, she couldn't be in the backyard when we were swimming because if she though you were underwater for too long and, therefore, in great danger, she would jump in to save you - even though she could barely swim.

we were her herd and she protected us. when we adopted patch, bella simply ignored patch's efforts to become the alpha dog. "this is my family," she seemed to say. "don't even try"

bella had always had this funny wheezy breathing condition. eventually, it became so bad we took her to the vet:

lung cancer

it got to the point that she could barely breathe, so we took her to the vet to have her put down. i sat on the floor and held her as she died. (it brings tears to my eyes even now)

after, i walked around and around the parking lot, trying to choke back tears and failing at it. my parents let me until i stopped crying and calmed down.

there are no words to describe the loss of a family member. even if it is out of kindness. even if it is to alleviate suffering. it still burns and aches and hurts. even if that family member is "just" a dog.

pumba was also a pound dog (always pound dogs in this family): a mutt dog that my mom walked past at one of those "adopt-a-pet" events at petsmart. we'd lost patch a year or so earlier. something about pumba - probably her teeth - caught mom's eye and she came home to pick me up to get my opinion. we brought pumba home with us that night.

and ... she was ridiculous. everything about her: her teeth; the random conglomeration of her body parts; the way her head looked more bear than dog; how she ran into walls; how she leaned into you; and moved so you would scratch her butt; how she cocked her head; and (my personal favorite) how if you hit just the right spot on her head she would bury her head in your lab and fall down onto you with her butt waving in the air - half broken tail wagging crazily.

but - she was overly protective. she would bark ferociously and ram herself against the front glass if anyone came to the door or walked by. occasionally it was more than just bark - she nipped at people sometimes. even bit a few.

my parents talked a lot about putting her down. but they always decided not to. in may, they decided that if there was another occurrence, they would end it.

when my dad's side of the family was visiting last weekend, pumba nipped at gramps. no apparent reason, unprovoked.

monday night, my mom said something about how they were going to have to put her down...

i didn't believe her.]

i hung up the phone, knowing i would go, but not wanting to. i need to say goodbye to her. i need for her to know that i never hated her and that i loved her and would never have done ... this.

my dad called. apologized for not telling me.

i got into the car, tears already streaming down my face and sent a text to brad: please call me when you get this.

forty minutes later i arrived at the pound - the pound we saved pumba from four or so years ago. my dad was outside with her, but i hardly even registered his presence and immediately wrapped my arms around pumba.

we probably waited forty minutes. i spoke to brad briefly, but mostly hugged pumba and held her as tightly as i could. choking back tears and trying to pour as much love as i could into her, so she would know that i loved her.

when they brought us in, the man (how awful to work in a pound) smiled at us.

"soooo ... a euthanasia"
"yes" my mom "she's a biter"
"better grab a muzzle then"

and he returned holding a muzzle. and placed it over pumba's mouth.

she looked up at me - for the first time her big brown eyes wary and scared. please don't leave me

and i buried my face in hers and cried.


then they took her away.

and she died alone. thinking her family had deserted and abandoned her. but, oh so much worse than that, we gave up on her.

and she died knowing that.