28 September 2007

bottom of the ocean saw him under the boat

on thursday, as a bit of a complete surprise, i got to go diving at the sanctuary on cobrador island (one of the little islands between romblon and tablas – someday i will try to get a google earth image of where i am so that it's possible to picture it). i hadn't brought any of my gear with me (including logbook) because i figured there was no chance of diving, but there you go. after the SIKAT director left, we got the stuff prepared and headed over there.

the sanctuary is only 5 hectares, so quite small, and there is a tiny little "island" (more like a rock) on the side of it where the guard house is positioned. we had lunch there with some of the people from cobrador – grilled squid. whole too which is a bit weird – i took all the guts and stuff out, just can't eat all that like the filipinos can. but yea, pretty tasty.


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[rey on the right]


rey and i dove on takot reef. it's really beautiful. a lot of the coral is only in so-so condition, but there are tons of fish and the visibility was wonderful. i was sad that my camera was in long beach.

i feel so privileged to be able to dive so much while i'm here. it's been awesome – and such a great experience. i've really been working on my fish ID skills and paying attention to navigation and what-not. it's still surprising to me every time i get in the water that it is so warm – i didn't even use a wet suit this time, just went in my swimsuit and a shirt, and was just fine. it's amazing. i always expect the water to be so cold (nothing like growing up near california for that) and brace myself for that shock when i get in, but it doesn't come. warm water definitely has its pluses.


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[cobrador island]

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucketpicture
[looking towards tablas island. the little island on the left is the one i live near]


tomorrow (saturday) i go back to long beach and get started on projects again. i am feeling quite good and hopeful about getting some "done". i met a guy from the peace corps tonight (friday) who said that in six months i shouldn't expect to get much done, which i do accept, but i still feel as if i can get a few things done in carmen while i'm here. i am feeling optimisitic.

27 September 2007

jet waves are driving me thing in nicer motions

this week i have spent in romblon town working with rey and SIKAT. i really absolutely love it here in romblon (very cute town) and once again am feeling inspired to go back to long beach and try again. being in the philippines is a bit of a roller coaster ... i go back and forth on a very regular basis between feeling determined/inspired/excited/full of ideas/zealous and then frustrated/disheartened/wind taken out of my sails/depressed about the situation.

so we will see how this next week goes. i've got a bit of a plan for myself, which i really think will help. i think my main frustration here is that i rarely feel as if i accomplished something, even if that something is very simple. perhaps that is what makes me american more than anything else – i need to do something, to say, "today i did _____".

oh, and before i forget, i finally got a good picture of a jeepney, so at long last here it is:


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[nothing like jesus and unicorns]


anyways, i came to romblon to assist with a mangrove planting session at two of the local barangays monday – wednesday and to attend a GIS training on friday. i'm also here to thoroughly question rey about procedures on the surveys SIKAT does in romblon and see what ideas/suggestions he has. really, he has been so helpful and such a good resource to have.

[by the by, SIKAT is a national NGO (non-government organization) that works with LGU's (local government units) and PO's (people's organizations) to set-up coastal resource management plans. one of the places they are based is on romblon island and that's where rey works although he lives in long beach with a teacher named sally – they also host volunteers.]

i am really incredibly impressed with how things are done here. SIKAT really has its shit together and knows how to work the system and with people very well. in fact, there was actually two people from a film crew here this week who are doing a documentary on fisheries in the philippines and they are using romblon as an example of what is good to do.

it's great to tag along and observe how things are run. they were doing a big mangrove planting at a sanctuary in one of the barangay's on tuesday. and the sanctuary, although small, is very well run and maintained.

they have a lot of information up in the main building, a floating house, a guardhouse with 24/7 monitoring, etc. and, through SIKAT, the sanctuary is surveyed every year (sadly this will take place in march after i have left). honestly, it is wonderful. and i ran around taking bajillions of pictures and trying to note and remember all these things that i want to do in carmen. because *sigh* the potential is there, it's just that it needs a shove to get it going.

the mangrove planting is hard work, but they got a lot of people from the community out there doing it and helping and we got it done (they claim we planted 5000 seedlings) remarkably fast. when you think about the fact that in my first three weeks i planted, like, 30 mangroves ... yea, it's a bit insane what you can accomplish when you have a lot of people.


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[community involvement]

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[me planting with the mayor and a councillor]


wednesday was at a barangay on a different island (just a ten minute boat ride) and much more low key. beautiful though:


Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
[sunset]


the director for SIKAT was also here this week to check on things and he's a really honestly nice guy. most of the time i feel a bit uncomfortable around men here – they are all friendly, but very ... forward and direct (read: i am sick of being asked if i am single in every single conversation. NO! i am not!) – but this guy is really decent. so to make a long story short, turns out they've been trying to get the two municipalities on the east side of tablas island, which faces romblon island, to collaborate with romblon municipality here on the island on the management on the corridor inbetween. municipality control is 15 km offshore and the distance between the two islands is less than 30 km, so there is so overlap. and apparently the corridor is a big path for migratory species (the director said that they find whale sharks (!!!!) there and have even seen dugongs and mantas and all sorts of dolphins and pelagic fish and what not), so coordination between two municipalities would be very good. aaannddd one of those municipalities on tablas island is san agustin and the work is funded and will likely start in october or november and so he says i can assist them with that project. i am not sure exactly what that entails, but it is certainly exciting! i do not want to abandon carmen; i have a commitment there and fully intend to do what i can there, but even helping out SIKAT one week a month or something, would be wonderful (and a great learning experience).

24 September 2007

going science-y

since i've been back in long beach it has ... rained, rained, rained. which, when my work is all outdoors and reliant on being able to get around by bike (and seriously these roads are dangerous when it rains since they become all mud and hardly navigable), means that i have been stuck inside. disappointing, since i was supposed to be diving this week at the sanctuary with gear rey (lives here in long beach, also hosts volunteers, works for SIKAT [a marine conservation organization] on romblon island) lent me. sigh.

then on saturday i got sick, complete with fever, which confined me to bed, trying not to panic about some weird tropical disease. but then at about noon sunday, almost exactly 24 hours after it hit, i felt much better. seems it was just some 24-hour flu thing, thank goodness. it is really hard to be sick here – my host family constantly coming in to check on me and waking me up, insisting that i take medicine or come eat more rice and fish. i know they mean well, but eesh, i just wanted to be left alone to sleep in peace (which, by the by, is impossible to come by around here thanks to all the roosters, barking dogs, televisions, screaming children, trikes/motorcycles with no mufflers, bad videoke music etc).

so since i have no exciting adventures or stories to relate, i decided i should probably write about the actual work to be done and situation here.

it is estimated that globally over 50% of fisheries are fully or over exploited. most people in the world, particularly those in developing countries, rely on the sea for food, and certainly for their source of protein. at the rate we are fishing the ocean, nearly all fish stocks are expected to crash within the next 50 years. this has huge potential consequences for most of the people throughout the world.

the situation is only complicated more by the competition that occurs between large commercial fishermen with their fancy technology and boats and the local fishermen trying to feed their families. there are laws, of course, regulating where and how much any fishermen can take, but these laws are very rarely enforced.

the pending crisis could mean starvation for most of the world's population.

ideally, what needs to be done is to set up laws regulating the size and number of fish caught and marine protected areas which allow stocks to recover where they cannot be fished. of course, how do you tell a starving fisherman that he cannot fish this or that species of fish, that any fish needs to be above a certain size, and that he cannot fish in this area? how do you tell someone to think in the long-term when he is trying to feed his family today?

this is a problem throughout the world and especially in countries like the philippines where most of the population lives below the poverty line, practically everyone lives on the coast, and all rely on the sea for food.

until recently, destructive fishing practices were nearly ubiquitous. the worst of these include dynamite fishing (i.e. lighting a stick of dynamite, throwing it into the reef, and blowing up everything in the vicinity) and cyanide fishing (literally putting cyanide into the water to stun the fish). the problem with these methods of fishing is that they kill everything in the area (not just the target fish) and they absolutely destroy the coral. the philippines is one of the biological "hotspots" of the world. it has some of the most beautiful and biologically diverse reefs in the world, and sadly, most of them are in terrible condition. of the 500 genera of coral, 488 of them exist in the philippines. something like 70% of the reefs in the philippines are considered "poor" quality or below. what is most important about this is that coral reefs provide the habitat for most of the target fish (either as adults or as juveniles); thus, no coral = no fish.

thankfully, for the most part, dynamite and cyanide fishing have ceased. but other non-discriminatory fishing methods are still being used and fish that are far too small are still being taken from the seas. if fishermen are taking juveniles, that means that no adults are out there, which means no spawning, no reproduction, and no new fish to allow for recovered stocks. i still haven't been able to figure out what laws actually exist here. i hear that the laws are quite good – it's just that the enforcement ... is lacking.

a marine sanctuary has been established – that's good. a critical start. now that it is there, the list of things that need to be done is unending. this includes a thorough survey of the species that exist there and what condition the reef is in. that way, comparisons can be made in future years to show any progress. if you cannot show people that there is progress, both in terms of number and diversity of fish and in the condition of coral, then people will start to lose respect for the sanctuary and not follow any regulations against fishing within its boundaries. education is critical: about why sanctuaries are good, about the care and upkeep and biology of coral, about fish in general, fisheries management, etc etc. some sort of community involvement needs to be established to guard the sanctuary and ensure that fishermen are not (in fact) fishing there and that rules – i.e. do not touch the coral, anchor in the sanctuary – are enforced. ay and that is only a beginning. a sanctuary does not fix the problem; it is a beginning, but must be used in coordination with fishing laws.

additionally, mangrove forests are (well, used to be) prevalent here. i don't know too much about mangroves, but they are interesting ecosystems. there are quite a few genera of mangroves, all distantly related; mangrove trees are one of only a few plants able to survive in salt water. the swamps they create are also absolutely essential to tropical areas. they act as a nursery and shelter for many many marine species, including sea turtles, fish, tons of inverts, etc. mangroves are also a natural border – they protect the shore from storms. they also filter out the finer sediment, preventing siltation on the coral reefs. most mangrove forests throughout the world have been cut down to allow for beaches for tourists, including here in the philippines. slowly though, their importance is being recognized and they are being restored. that's the other part of my project here – planting and monitoring mangroves. there is also a small nursery in long beach and at the sanctuary, so i just have to keep it up.

as far as the sanctuary goes, my plan is to do a thorough survey of it, create a list of species there, and to create a field guide of pictures and some brief facts about the species. i also hope to go out with fishermen during the day and talk to them about what species they are catching, how big they are now compared to what they used to be, etc. and hopefully get some educational seminars going at the sanctuary about why its a good thing and what else everyone can do. community involvement is so important in situations like these.

the frustration of my time here so far has mostly been a result of recognizing what needs to be done, but only being one person with very limited resources. there is no diving in san agustin, which means i must rely on rey and SIKAT for lending me gear. and ... scientific work needs other people – you cannot do it alone. i am hoping that people at the local government unit (LGU) will come through on this.

ok, hopefully that's a good enough science lesson for now :) please do comment if you have any questions or suggestions – this project means nothing if it does not, at the very least, raise awareness.